[Sangetsu]

I stayed at a ryoukan with an onsen last year. Access to the inn was by cable car, and the car passed over the springs, meaning that anyone riding in the car could see the people using the springs below. I got to see a few bathers, and I got to watch the cable car pass overhead while I was bathing, but it didn't bother me.

The inn where I stayed had two indoor baths, and two outdoor baths. The indoor baths are separated for male and female, while one outdoor bath rotates, you need to look at the gate to see what hours men or women are able to use it. But after 10 pm, there was no restriction, so men and women could use the bath together. The other outdoor bath was available by reservation only, and only for half-hour intervals.

Onsen etiquette is simple. When you enter, you put your clothes and such into a basket. You are given a towel and a washcloth. Most onsens require that you leave the towel in the locker area, you can only take the washcloth into the onsen with you. Near the pools you'll find faucets and stools. Some have hoses and small shower heads on them, others have just a bucket. Soap and shampoo are usually available. After thoroughly washing and rinsing yourself outside the pool, you can then climb in for a soak. You can bring your washcloth with you, but it is not permitted to touch the water. You can leave it next to the pool, or put in on the top of your head.

Good onsens have a little sulfur and other minerals in the water. It may sometimes smell a little funny, but the minerals are harmless, and they leave your skin very soft.