Toshogu temple ornaments are mind blowing. The whole place feels different. There are huge cedar trees there, resembling slumbering forest guardians, all covered in ancient moss. You can sense the presence of spirits. I would love to exterminate all tourists there for one day and stay to meditate through night, or write calligraphy. I love Nikko.
In Nikko time seems to have fallen asleep. Once you stop seeing all the commotion it is a very tranquil place.