thanks kasman for that review... That's good to hear about Saumrai tours. I assume you took the fully guided tour then? I am looking into them for the self guided tour. Emailing with Mike Roberts now. They definitely are a lot cheaper then the Inside Japan tours.. but I have heard good things about InsideJpan tours too.
That interesting what you said about koya-san temple stay. I am a little leery of doing that myself. For one I don't want to wake up early for prayer!
Did you stay in Shirakowago in one of the old farm houses? If so, how was it? Mike suggested that to me...