Surfing!

[Sangetsu]

I never knew that surfing was so popular in Japan until after I moved here. By a good stroke of luck, I happen to live and work near a very nice beach, which usually has pretty decent surf. Yesterday I finally took the time to go out and surf for a few hours.

It's been many years since I last went surfing. I spent my teens living in Huntington Beach, California, where surfing is pretty much a way of life for many people. I used to surf at least twice a week when I lived there, but I ended up going to university in the Southwest, and then working in Florida for several years. As many of you may know, a bathtub with a child in it has bigger waves than the beaches in Florida.

Yesterday I arrived at the beach quite early, and I was surprised how many people were already surfing. I hadn't actually gone to the beach to surf, just to relax in the sun on one of the last of the warm days before fall starts. But the waves were so good, and the people seemed to be having such a good time that I couldn't resist.

I walked to a nearby surf shop, bought a pair of trunks, and rented a board. I then walked back to the beach and paddled out into the water. Everyone was wearing wetsuits for some reason, personally, the water wasn't at all cold to me.

As I said before, the waves were nice, but the currents were a little tricky. It took me awhile to regain my balance, and to get used to the board, but I enjoyed being out in the water again. The water wasn't at all deep; even where the best waves were breaking I could still reach the bottom with my feet.

The other people around me varied greatly in skill. Some were excellent surfers, and a few others were complete beginners who hadn't yet figured out how to balance on their boards yet. But everyone was enjoying the good waves and the beautiful day.

It's such a shame that the summer is over. I went shopping for a surfboard today, and wondered if the weather would allow a few more weekends before turning cold. I ordered the board anyway, I hope it arrives before Saturday.