Need advice on buying (men's) suits in Tokyo

steel · (#1 (**permalink**))

I need to update my wardrobe. I don't wear suits all the time but recently more often. And, the problem is that I think the cut is a bit dated....single-breasted 3-button, single or double pleats on the trousers with cuffs, functional surgeons cuffs on the sleeve. Standard made to measure (MTM) stuff from a Hong Kong tailor. They're supposed to be 'super 150's or 180's' but that's the lie that all Hong Kong tailors tell their clients.

I'm actually thinking that getting a few off the rack (OTR) suits here in Tokyo might be just as good an option -- and probably a bit cheaper. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Or, I also noticed a few made to measure chain stores. One acquaintance recommended a place called "F1" but I thought the cut of his suits were even 'stodgier' than mine.

steel · (#2 (**permalink**))

No one? Or, is this just the wrong forum for this kind of advice?

MMM · (#3 (**permalink**))

In my opinion, Japanese OTR suits look exactly like they are OTR. For only a couple man more you can get something really nice. For example, i was looking at some OTR suits three or four years ago, and then I went to a Takeo Kikuchi shop, and got amazing service and attention, and a suit I still get compliments on a few years later. The price was criminally reasonable.

steel · (#4 (**permalink**))

Thanks. I've heard of Takeo Kikuchi but assumed that he was just another Japanese designer. So, wouldn't the suits in his shops also be 'OTR' (off the rack)? I even found one being pitched online for an entirely reasonable Y33,000 here.

MMM · (#5 (**permalink**))

Quote:

Originally Posted by steel

Thanks. I've heard of Takeo Kikuchi but assumed that he was just another Japanese designer. So, wouldn't the suits in his shops also be 'OTR' (off the rack)? I even found one being pitched online for an entirely reasonable Y33,000 here.

It is off the rack, in that it wasn't designed for me, but I found a style I liked, got completely measured, and then they spent a week or so cutting a suit to fit me. What it means is, it fits ME, (as long as I don't gain or lose a lot of weight). The difference between really OTR is that you don't get the too wide shoulders or big gap between shirt collar and suit collar.

I am not saying Takeo Kikuchi is a genius, but the style, service and cut I got at a very reasonable price means I would go back again when I need to.

steel · (#6 (**permalink**))

Thanks for the clarification. So, it was an OTR suit from Takeo Kikuchi but they made certain through the alterations that it fit you perfectly, right? I might check them out.

Dormeuil - which is priced out of my budget - has two options. One is OTR and if you pay something like 20% more and do not mind waiting 2-3 weeks, they will make a MTM (made to measure) version for you.